Geography of the West Coast.

It is necessary that I should endeavour to give a clear idea of the West Coast region and its approaches, in order that the events hereafter mentioned may be properly appreciated. That portion of the West Coast region which lies south of Martin's Bay may be disposed of at once. It can be entered by none but very high alpine passes, only recently discovered, and probably not used by Maoris, Its shores are so steep that there is no travelling along them. In its northern extremity, however, is Piopiotahi, so often mentioned as the place where page 12 tangiwai is found, to which reference will be made hereafter. North of this lies the West Coast, so famous twenty-five yean since for its enormous yield of gold, and still occupied by a population of twenty-five thousand energetic people devoted to mining pursuits. It may be entered in several different ways; thus: (1.) By sea from north or south. No doubt at times the coast was visited by sea. Mr. Wohlers mentions this, though he apparently refers to Piopiotahi, not to Arahura. But the coast is fearfully exposed and the sea excessively rough, and boating even with powerful crews must have been highly dangerous. (2.) By land viâ Lake Wanaka, the Haast Pass, and the Awarua or Haast River, and thence up the coast by land or sea. This route, or one by a neighbouring pass to the coast a little to the south, was described to Dr. Shortland by the Maori Huruhuru in 1842. It was the meeting-point of old Maori roads up the Waitaki and the Molyneux (Matau) and others. There was an old Maori settlement at Jackson's Bay, where this track reaches the shore; and until destroyed or dispersed by Rauparaha's "West Coast party there were Maori settlements at Hawea and Wanaka. From Jackson's Bay the road up the coast to Arahura must have been difficult and dangerous, as there are some twenty rivers to cross. (3,) By the seashore from Cape Farewell in the extreme north. The possibility of walking by the shore from Cape Farewell to Arahura was demonstrated by Bruuner and Heaphy in 1846. They found it excessively laborious, and passed over bluffs and headlands by means of rude ladders constructed years before by Rauparaba's raiders, who had come down this way-Even as late as that date they found old Maoris living near Cape Farewell who told them of the feuds which had prevailed in their young days, the character of which showed that the occupants of the greenstone country never had had friendly neighbours in the district to the north of their own. They were consequently utterly isolated until the passes from the East Coast became known, (4.) By the passes from Canterbury. North of the Haast Pass the next met is Whitcombe's Pass, one hundred miles north, connecting the south branch of the Hokitika River with the Rakaia. Next is Browning's Pass, connecting the Kokotahi, or north brand of the Hokitika, with the Rakaia. Then comes Arthur's Pass, the most convenient of all, crossed by the coach-road, but probably unknown to the Maoris, connecting an affluent of the Taramakau with one of the Waimakarir. Next is Harper's Saddle, on the borders of the Provinces of Canterbury and Nelson, connecting the Taramakau with the Hurunui, which was still used thirty years ago by the Maoris, who rafted themselves down the river on mokihi (rafts made of Phormium stems). (5.) By the passes from Nelson. These lead into the page 13 Grey and Buller valleys, and as these enter into the historical narratives I "will mention them later.

The difficulties which beset the first miners who worked their way across are half forgotten now that a splendid road exists. In truth, however, to the last the two countries were separated by a wall which none but the bravest climbed, making the isolation of the two territories almost complete. Had Hannibal had such a country to deal with he would not have crossed the Alps in the face of a resolute enemy. To this day each region has more traffic with the North Island than with its immediate neighbour. It is, then, quite intelligible that a people long lived on the West Coast, holding occasional intercourse with the North Island, fighting constantly with the tribe immediately to the north of them, and utterly unknown to the tribes of the East Coast, neither knowing the way to penetrate to the other district.

It is, of course, possible that Ngatimamoe or even Waitaha had known of roads to the West Coast, of which no record was transmitted to their conquerors; but it seems more likely that, if they had possession of a little greenstone, it had come page 14 to them either by way of the North Island or by a line of communication leading to Nelson and Queen Charlotte Sound, passing through the hands of some intermediate tribe. The Ngaitahu traditions are very precise as to the time when and place where they first heard of it.